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Many thanks to all the great volunteers we have that made this Pack event
possible. Here's hoping I get all the names in. Scott Albaugh for organizing
the event, Jennifer Fuller for taking care of the refreshments, Phil Chapman
for making sure the Troop items were collected in one spot, Gloria Taylor and
family for helping set up and making sure the Tigers got their Firehouse
patches, Janet Vespie for helping me collect money for Cranbrook and filling
out checks for many of our other events coming up, for our set up crew Al
Smith, Jeff Koop, Todd Schroeder, Charlie Pardales, Tom Pyatt and sons, the
scouts who did opening and closing flag ceremonies and the many parents who
helped out their scout and any other scout with their rocket. Also, thank you
to the many parents and scouts who stayed to clean up. Many hands make light
work. Thank you for your many hands!!!!!!!
Instructions/Overview: --Rockets must be constructed from the materials in the BSA kits. (decals etc. can be added at will). --Rocket body can be no more than seven inches long, NOT including propeller and fins. --No restrictions on weight or design of the rocket (the lighter the better, provided the body is strong enough to support the rubber band tension). -In addition, a standard number of winds for the rubber band motor will be determined, and all flights should be wound to that number. Three rubber bands can be used. -Here are some links to a couple of helpful websites. Much more can be found online by doing a search for Space Derby or Rocket Derby: http://www.etekgadget.com/SpaceDerbySpaceShipConstruction.htm http://www.buckskin.org/Resources/Cubs/space_derby.htmHere are some tips I have learned with the help of the above links: -Sand the inside portion of the rocket, where the rubber bands will go, with extra fine (220 grit) sandpaper before gluing the halves together to minimize friction on the rubber bands. Also, it's a good idea to make a channel for the hanger lug at this time, rather than having to carve it out later. -When gluing the halves together, insert the nose button to help align the halves, but don't let it get glued in place. -At the rear of the rocket, pay more attention to the alignment Inside the rocket, rather than outside, since you want it to be smooth for the rubber bands, and won't be able to sand it once the halves are glued together. -Balsa wood is very soft and easy to work with. It can easily be shaped using a carving knife, potato peeler, and/or coarse (60 grit) sandpaper. Don't overdo it with the sandpaper, and switch to a finer grade when you get the rough shape done. -Grooves for inserting the fins can be formed with a sharp pencil or even a flat screwdriver blade, if you prefer not to use a knife. -Glue fins and the carrier lug in place with a couple drops of crazy glue so they set fast, and add wood glue or white glue for additional strength. -Make a rubber band hook from a wire coat hanger to insert from the back of the rocket and pull the rubber bands through. -When bending the propeller shaft over the propeller, make the corner assharp as you can. It may be necessary to bend it back far enough to hook on the propeller blade. Space Derby tool kit suggestions: -Extra rubber bands. These can be purchased at Council, and come with a small bottle of rubber lube. -Lubricant for rubber bands- either Silicon spray, Teflon spray, glycerin, castor oil, or ethylene glycol -Assorted pack of sandpaper, from Coarse (60 grit) to Extra Fine (220 grit) -Potato peeler -Crazy glue -White glue or wood glue -Knife- whittling knife or utility knife -Needle nose pliers -Scissors -Pencil for scoring lines to insert fins -Sanding sealer or polyurethane for a smooth finish -graphite lubricant for propeller |
